Ok I confess I can’t BO ribbing. I have tried a host of different methods and while some are better than others I just can’t get it to look as good as my ribbing CO is.
So I don’t BO ribbing anymore, I work around it. I knit my ribbing separate to the garment and then I attach it via a three needle BO.
For the little bit of extra time it takes it gives a few extra benefits:
- I get a far superior looking ribbing.
- It tapers nicely from the join to what would normally be the BO so I don’t need to downsize needles or decrease as I go.
- The edge of the ribbing looks neat and is stretchy
- The 3 needle BO used to join the ribbing creates a neat seam, a good place for weaving in ends.
- The 3 needle BO seam also gives added structure to necklines and armholes.
If you too struggle with ribbing BO looking the way you want this is worth a try.
Step 1: Pick up the number of stitches you need on the main garment, write it down. Cut the yarn, leaving a tail for weaving in.
Step 2: On a new set of needles CO required stitches (I use long tail cast on) and knit the ribbing you need. Don’t cut yarn.
Step 3: Turn the main garment inside out. Leave the ribbing with the right side facing out.
Step 4: Insert the ribbing into the main garment so the right sides of each piece are touching.
Step 5: Line up the beginning of the ribbing round with a good starting position. For a sleeve this would be the bottom of the arm hole.
Step 6: Using a needle one size larger than what the ribbing is worked on joining the pieces with a 3 needle BO. For a tutorial on a 3 needle BO click HERE.
Step 7: Weave in ends.
I use 3 needle BO’s a lot, it is my favorite way to seam shoulders, it gives a neat, small and strong seam.
On top of how great it looks it also saves time, instead of binding off two sets of stitches per shoulder and them seaming I only need to do one 3 needle BO!
Step 1: Turn your garment inside out so the right sides face each other.
Step 2: Put both sets of shoulder stitches (or what ever stitches you are binding) onto the needles. and hold them one in front of the other.
If there is no working yarn attached, attach some to the right hand side, it doesn’t really matter which set of shoulder stitches you attach it to
Step 3: Get a third needle one size larger than the other 2 needles.
Step 4: Insert the larger needle into the first stitch of the front needle and the first stitch of the back needle as if to knit.
Step 5: knit the two stitches together.
Step 6: Repeat steps 4 & 5, so you have two stitches on the right hand needle.
Step 7: Pass the first stitch on the right hand needle over the second stitch so one stitch remains on the right hand needle.
REPEAT STEPS 6 & 7 until all stitches are BO.
Do you like weaving in hundreds of ends when you work with stripes? Me neither! I almost always carry the yarn up the side.
Here is how I do it. I have found that by wrapping every row the alternating colour creates a smooth and invisible way to avoid cutting and weaving.
Here I am knitting Charlotta, it requires 8 of the yellow stripes and then 2 purple.
My next row is yellow, so I need to carry the purple up the side. I happen to be up to the sleeves and I don’t want the carried yarn to hang out the side of the work so choose to carry it up on the second stitch.
I knit the first stitch.
Then I insert the needle into the second stitch.
I wrap or twist the two yarns around each other, the yellow goes over the top, then underneath.
From behind it looks like this, and I carry on knitting as though the purple isn’t even there.